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As this country continues its uneasy dialogue about integration, spurred on by an anti-immigrant book authored by an executive of the central bank, the restaurant owner Jianhua Wu is busy selling wine, marketing wine, eagerly and happily sampling and sipping wine. Not simply any wine, but German wine.

Mr. Wu, who came here from China a quarter century ago to study engineering, in lots of ways represents one other side of the immigration debate, not the hostile, fearful, anti-immigrant sentiments stirred up by the shock-book of Thilo Sarrazin, the banker. He along with his family instead represent the emerging Germany that is certainly slowly, painfully being a multicultural society, where the spicy snap of Szechuan dishes as well as the subtle, flowery sweetness of a riesling can complement one another.

“Riesling and Chinese food, it works,” said Mr. Wu, who may have become something of any sensation in this city for 德国亚超, Hot Spot, which offers an extensive collection of German wines alongside his Szechuan- and Shanghai-inspired menu.

After struggling to produce a life here, doing work in one fast-food Chinese restaurant after another, after years peddling sweet-and-sour recipes packed with MSG, Mr. Wu said he learned that his route to financial success within his adopted home was ultimately wine – or really how his own love of German wine made Germans feel about him.

“He’s a bit of a maniac about German wine,” said Holger Schwarz, the wine merchant who organized the get-together at Hot Spot. “He loves German wine!”

Mr. Sarrazin’s book, “Germany Does Away With Itself,” released the other day, attacked Germany’s Muslim immigrants for refusing to integrate, saying they were “dumbing down society.” It vilifies Islam and blames Germany’s welfare state to be too generous. In reaction, the central bank asked the president of Germany to eliminate him through the board, and Mr. Sarrazin on Thursday announced his intention to stop his post in the end from the month.

The publication is selling briskly, however, with a lot of Germans proclaiming that Mr. Sarrazin includes a valid point which people like Mr. Wu – who are able to make a number of the sacrifices that other immigrants refuse, or fail, to make – are definitely the proof. “He named his son Martin; the Turks would never do this,” Monica Diel, whose husband, Armin, is a winemaker, said on the Sunday promotion, expressing a sentiment who had heads nodding in approval.

In fact, Mr. Wu gave his son two names – Martin and a Chinese name, Tao. But it would appear that Martin is ascendant, while Tao is fading. This, Mr. Wu says having a sigh, implies that he succeeded in Germany, although not without some cost to his family identity.

That is probably the deepest fault lines inside the debate here. Many Germans wish to preserve the nation’s cultural identity by getting immigrants leave their traditions behind. Many immigrants refuse, saying they want to hold on to their cultural identities.

In fact, the two happen to be blending, particularly in places like Berlin, as well as the Hot Spot. Mr. Wu kept his Chinese passport, while his wife and son have grown to be naturalized citizens. “I didn’t try difficult to integrate,” he said in well-spoken German. “My cultural background is Chinese, which is where I feel in the home. In the back of my head, Germany is still a reekrc country for me.”

In the home, he and his wife, Huiqin Wang, attempt to speak mostly Chinese, but switch sometimes to German because their son expresses himself better in German.

“I am seeking to provide the basics of Chinese culture and philosophy to my son so he can be Chinese,” Mr. Wu said. “But he lives here, he has to speak perfect German. He likes China, but he feels less at home there than I actually do.”

Mr. Wu, 50, got to Germany in 1984 from Zhejiang. He frequently laughs, the sort of laugh of a man still amused by his very own good fortune. He earned a college degree here in engineering but left school and opened 德国悠购 that he said was just like a thousand other Chinese restaurants.

Some day in 1995, he saw a leaflet about wine. He was interested, so he went out and bought 10 cases, all Bordeaux, thinking he could sell the wines in his restaurant. He never sold one bottle because the expensive wine did not attract customers trying to find chop suey. So he took the wine home, bought a reference guide and drank and studied his approach to expertise. In 2003 he met a Chinese businessman who asked him to look into German wine easily obtainable in China.

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